Man's Bufu (Court Surcoat)
Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1875/1900
Medium
Silk, 1:1 plain gauze weave; embroidered with silk and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in satin, stem, and tent stitches; Roumanian couching
Dimensions
105.7 × 157.5 cm (41 5/8 × 62 in.)
Classification
textile
Department
Textiles
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Accession Number
151599
Rights
Public Domain
Art Historical Context
This striking Man’s Bufu, or court surcoat, was created during the late Qing dynasty (1875–1900) by Manchu artisans. Worn over a robe by officials at the imperial court, the loose-fitting garment signaled rank and status within the Manchu-led government that ruled China from 1644 to 1911. Its generous proportions—roughly 106 by 158 centimeters—allowed it to drape elegantly while revealing the embroidered badges on the wearer’s chest and back. Crafted from fine silk gauze in a simple 1:1 plain weave, the surcoat showcases the sophisticated embroidery traditions of the period. Artisans used silk threads alongside gilt- and silvered-metal strips, worked in satin, stem, tent, and Roumanian couching stitches. These techniques produced luminous, raised motifs that caught the light during court ceremonies, underscoring the wearer’s prestige and the textile’s role as both functional attire and portable display of imperial authority. Today, this textile in the Art Institute of Chicago’s collection offers visitors a vivid glimpse into Qing court culture, where clothing communicated social hierarchy with remarkable artistry and precision.
About the Artist
Manchu
"Manchu" is a cultural and ethnic designation used in museum collection records to identify objects, textiles, costumes, and decorative arts associated with the Manchu people, a Tungusic group originating from the regions northeast of the Great Wall of China. The Manchus rose to political dominance in 1644 when they conquered the declining Ming dynasty and established the Qing dynasty, which ruled...