Man's Cape (Akhnif)
Mid–19th century
Medium
Wool and cotton: slit tapestry weave; embroidered with wool and cotton in heavy chain, herring bone, interlacing and stem stitches; main warp cut fringe, twined and wrapped; added wrapped cut fringe and leather binding stitched with hemp
Dimensions
147.3 × 270.3 cm (58 × 106 1/2 in.)
Classification
needlework (visual works)
Department
Textiles
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Accession Number
180974
Rights
Public Domain
About this artwork
This akhnif, or cape, was handwoven by Amazigh women of the Aït Ouaouzguite region in southern Morocco, on a wide vertical loom and woven entirely to shape, beginning upside-down from the hood. Creating the large motif on the back side required precise control of vertical (warp) tension and complex horizontal (weft) turns in the weave to build a curve, techniques reserved for the most skilled weavers. Male artisans later added the leather binding and other finishes. The prominent motif—known loc...