Motif from Kashmir Shawl: Pheerozee (Turquoise Color), No. 23, By Order of Mahummud Azeem Khan

Art Historical Context

This exquisite gouache drawing captures a delicate floral motif intended for a Kashmir shawl, one of the most coveted luxury textiles of the early 19th century. Created around 1822–23 by an anonymous Indian artist, the work was commissioned “by order of Mahummud Azeem Khan” and labeled “Pheerozee,” indicating the turquoise colorway. Such pattern sheets served as precise guides for weavers, translating intricate botanical designs into the fine woolen fabrics that traveled from Kashmir to European and Asian markets. Executed in opaque watercolor on paper and finished with varnish, the sheet highlights the artist’s skill in rendering layered petals and scrolling leaves with jewel-like precision. The varnished surface not only protected the design but also mimicked the subtle sheen of woven shawls, bridging the worlds of drawing and textile art. Measuring just over fifteen inches tall, the narrow format suggests it was part of a numbered series used in a workshop setting. Today this piece offers a rare glimpse into the collaborative process behind Kashmir’s famed “buta” or paisley patterns, revealing how anonymous designers contributed to a global fashion phenomenon that blended Persian, Indian, and European tastes.

About the Artist

Anonymous, Indian, 19th century · 1800–1900

**Anonymous, Indian, 19th Century (ca. 1800–1900)** The artist cataloged as Anonymous, Indian, 19th century represents one of countless skilled Indian painters whose identities remain elusive in historical records, active during a transformative era under British colonial influence. Working roughly between 1800 and 1900, this anonymous figure exemplifies the legion of indigenous artists who adapt...