Pair of Lappets (Joined)
1775/85
Medium
Linen, bobbin straight lace of a type known as "Valenciennes" with a square Valenciennes mesh ground
Dimensions
112.3 × 9.6 cm (44 1/4 × 3 3/4 in.)
Classification
costume accessory
Department
Textiles
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Accession Number
31387
Rights
Public Domain
Art Historical Context
This exquisite Pair of Lappets, crafted around 1775–85, exemplifies the pinnacle of 18th-century lace artistry. Made from fine linen using the bobbin straight lace technique known as Valenciennes, these joined streamers measure an impressive 112.3 × 9.6 cm. Produced in the Valenciennes region of France, this lace features a distinctive square mesh ground—tiny, uniform squares woven seamlessly into intricate floral motifs—creating a delicate, durable fabric prized for its elegance and clarity. Lappets were fashionable costume accessories for elite women, often dangling gracefully from elaborate headdresses or caps during the late Rococo and early Neoclassical periods. Worn by aristocrats at court or social events, they symbolized wealth and refinement, as handmade bobbin lace demanded skilled labor and rare materials. This pair, now in the Art Institute of Chicago's Textiles Department, reflects the era's obsession with ornamental luxury before the French Revolution shifted tastes toward simplicity. The Valenciennes technique's innovation lies in its "straight" construction, where bobbins twist directly without a pillow, allowing for precise, resilient patterns. Such pieces highlight lace's evolution from functional trim to high art, bridging craftsmanship and couture in European fashion history.
About the Artist
Unknown
The artist designated as "Unknown" in our virtual museum's collection exemplifies a poignant chapter in art history: creators whose identities have faded into obscurity despite the enduring power of their work. With only one known artwork attributed to them in our holdings, this figure represents countless anonymous hands that shaped visual culture across centuries. Museums worldwide, including th...