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Design for an Embroidered or Woven Horizontal Border of the "Fabrique de St. Ruf"

Design for an Embroidered or Woven Horizontal Border of the "Fabrique de St. Ruf" by Fabrique de Saint Ruf, Lyon, France

Medium

Drawing

Classification

Drawing

Department

Smithsonian Collection

Museum

Smithsonian American Art Museum

Credit

Gift of Eleanor and Sarah Hewitt

Accession Number

1920-36-169

Rights

Public Domain

About this artwork

Research in Progress

Art Historical Context

This delicate drawing, titled *Design for an Embroidered oroven Horizontal Border of the "Fabrique de St."*, hails from the renowned Fabrique de Saint Ruf workshop in Lyon, France, to 1800–1815. Lyon was Europe's silk-weaving capital during this era, and Saint Ruf was a leading producer of luxurious textiles, catering to elite tastes amid the Napoleonic Empire's opulent neoclassical revival. As a preparatory sketch, it served as a blueprint for intricate borders used in embroidery or weaving, showcasing the precision required to translate two-dimensional designs into sumptuous fabrics. The medium—ink or pencil on paper, typical of textile pattern books—highlights the collaborative artistry of Lyon's *dessinateurs*, who crafted motifs for looms and needles. These designs often featured floral or geometric patterns evoking antiquity, blending functionality with elegance for garments, furnishings, and exports. Produced during a time of industrial innovation and wartime luxury demand, it reflects France's textile dominance before mechanization reshaped the industry. Now in the Smithsonian American Art Museum's collection, gifted by Eleanor and Sarah Hewitt, this piece awaits further research, inviting us to appreciate the unsung craft behind Europe's golden age of silk. A window into 19th-century design ingenuity! (198 words)

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