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Design for Embroidery of a Lower Front Part of an Overskirt of the "Fabrique de St. Ruf"

Design for Embroidery of a Lower Front Part of an Overskirt of the "Fabrique de St. Ruf" by Fabrique de Saint Ruf, Lyon, France

Medium

Drawing

Classification

Drawing

Department

Smithsonian Collection

Museum

Smithsonian American Art Museum

Credit

Gift of Eleanor and Sarah Hewitt

Accession Number

1920-36-19

Rights

Public Domain

About this artwork

Research in Progress

Art Historical Context

Step into the opulent world of 18-century French fashion with this drawing, a *Design for Embroidery of Lower Front Part of ankirt* from the renowned Fabrique de Saint Ruf Lyon, France, circa 1785. as a preparatory blueprint for luxurious textile embroidery, it captures the intricate patterns intended for the visible lower front of an oversirt—a key element in the elaborate layered gowns worn by the elite. Lyon's silk industry, powered by skilled artisans in workshops like Saint Ruf, dominated Europe's luxury fabric trade, producing shimmering brocades and embroidered silks that defined high fashion. This ink drawing exemplifies the precision of textile design during the late Ancien Régime, just before the French Revolution upended aristocratic extravagance. Overskirts, often draped and petticoated, showcased bold motifs like florals or geometrics to flaunt wealth and craftsmanship. The Fabrique de Saint Ruf specialized in such innovative patterns, bridging artistry and industry to supply Versailles and beyond. Housed in the Smithsonian American Art Museum as a gift from Eleanor and Sarah Hewitt, this piece highlights the Hewitt sisters' passion for decorative arts. Though research continues, it offers a window into how drawings like this guided embroiderers, ensuring symmetrical, scalable beauty on sumptuous fabrics—a testament to Lyon's enduring legacy in fashion history.

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