Artheon MuseumArtheonMuseum

Pleated fan

Unknown

1850–1870

Pleated fan by Unknown

Classification

costume & accessories

Department

Smithsonian Collection

Museum

Smithsonian American Art Museum

Credit

Museum purchase from Eleanor G. Hewitt and Sarah Cooper-Hewitt Funds

Accession Number

1997-155-2

Rights

Public Domain

About this artwork

Research in Progress

Art Historical Context

Step into the elegant world of mid-19th-century American with this pleated fan, crafted between 1850 and 1870. During Victorian era and amid the Civil War, fans were indispensable accessories for women, serving practical purposes like cooling oneself in stuffy parlors or ballrooms while doubling as tools of subtle social communication. A pleated design allowed for compact storage in reticules or sleeves, unfolding into a graceful arc that complemented the era's voluminous crinolines and hoop skirts. Though the artist and exact medium remain unidentified—part of ongoing research at the Smithsonian American Art Museum—this fan exemplifies the artistry in everyday costume pieces. Pleating techniques highlighted craftsmanship, often involving delicate folding of materials like paper, silk, or fabric mounted on sticks, blending utility with ornamental flair. Such accessories underscored cultural norms of femininity, modesty, and flirtation, where a fan's flick could convey everything from "I'm engaged" to "Follow me." Acquired through the museum purchase from the Eleanor G. Hewitt and Sarah Cooper-Hewitt Funds, this piece invites us to ponder the intimate stories woven into personal adornments. As research progresses, it reminds us how ordinary objects illuminate the social tapestry of American history.

About the Artist

Unknown

The artist designated as "Unknown" in our virtual museum's collection exemplifies a poignant chapter in art history: creators whose identities have faded into obscurity despite the enduring power of their work. With only one known artwork attributed to them in our holdings, this figure represents countless anonymous hands that shaped visual culture across centuries. Museums worldwide, including th...

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